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The City of Rocks, recently designated as a
National Reserve, inspired awe in all of the emigrants who
passed this way. A geologic wonder, the City of Rocks
developed into one of the most important and historic
junctures along the entire length of the overland emigrant
trails. Three routes converged here: the Fort Hall-Raft River
Approach, the Salt Lake Trail, and the Hudspeth Cutoff.
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From Fort Hall, the emigrants headed
west along the Snake River until they reached the Raft
River. There, they bid farewell to their friends heading
for Oregon and continued southwest towards City of
Rocks, a route which had probably first been taken by
Joseph Walker in 1843. The Salt Lake Trail to City of
Rocks came into being in 1848 when a party led by Samuel
Hensley got caught in a violent summer storm as they
headed west on Hastings Cutoff. The group retreated to
Salt Lake and then decided to head north, hoping to pick
up the more established trail west. |
They joined up with the Fort Hall-Raft
River approach at the southern end of City of Rocks,
near the rock formation known today as "Twin
Sisters." Later that year, the Mormon Battalion,
returning to Salt Lake from California, met up with
Hensley and they also followed his new Salt Lake
Trail. The next year, 1849, a wagon train headed by
Benoni Hudspeth opened a new shortcut from Soda
Springs that bypassed Fort Hall and connected with the
old Fort Hall road near the confluence of Cassia Creek
and the Raft River.
From there, the Hudspeth Cutoff
continued along the old Fort Hall - Raft River Route
to the City of Rocks. In the years following 1849,
most California emigrants would follow the Hudspeth
Cutoff, bypassing old Fort Hall. |
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As the emigrants left the City of Rocks,
they had to cross over Granite Pass. Yet, few made much
mention of this pass. In fact, the emigrants themselves
could not settle on a name for this pass. Many of them
did not give it a name at all in their accounts. Perhaps
the pass had little impact, coming as it did in the
midst of the day-to-day weariness that the trail had, by
now, assumed. Or perhaps the glories of the just-passed
City of Rocks simply overwhelmed it. |
Leander
Loomis, July 7, 1850:
To wander among these vast ledge of
rock, to crall in the great caves, caverns, and holes,
which nature had formed in these rocks fills the mind of
man, with a wild romantic Grandeur, which raises him
above his natural sphere, and leads him, to aspire, to
reach the angles [angels'] seat. --And a gain to wander
up and down along the paths which nature had formed in
some places leaving walls on either side some 300 feet
high, almost perpendicular, causes man to Gase with
astonishment, and wonder, at natures doings.... |
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Joseph
Middleton, Aug 26, 1849:
On passing through and out of this
amphitheatre to the S.W. you see Domes, Tureets,
Monuments, Urns on elevated Pyramids, broken Columns,
and an enormous Idol; insulated in the west end of the
amphitheatre as if it were the presiding Deity of the
Spring which runs near him. And Walls -- all in ruins in
a highly dilapidated state of dimensions, -- of
extraordinary variety and astonishing grandeur. And a
fine enormous Grotto. In advancing up through the gorge,
the insulated blocks of stone rise up before you in
succession, spearing up into the air in Pyramids of all
kinds of deformity in an astonishing manner of sublime
desolation. |
For more information on City of Rocks, see:
"Silent City of Rocks," Thomas H. Hunt, Overland Journal, Vol. 7, Number 4, 1989;
"Geology of Silent City of Rocks," Charles W. Martin, Jr., Overland Journal, Vol. 7, Number 4, 1989.
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