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Chimney Rock

Arguably the most famous landmark on the Platte-Sweetwater Route [the late Merrill Mates noted that 97 out of 100 of the best known journals/diaries mentioned the site], Chimney Rock is located several miles south of the north fork of the North Platte River about 150 miles west of the forks of the Platte River.

As to its dimensions, Mr. Mattes, the former National Park Service paragon of trail history, provides the benchmark. An 1895 U.S. Geological survey concluded that the top of Chimney Rock was 4,242 feet above sea level, while a 1964 study noted a loss of 17 feet by reporting the elevation of the site as being 4,225 feet above sea level. As to the actual dimensions of the monument itself, Mattes noted that in 1969 "The tip of the Rock. . .is 325 feet above the base of the cone, or about 470 feet above the North Platte River. The vertical spire alone measures 120 feet." Mattes also commented that his study of drawings/sketches/ descriptions of the site originating between 1837 and 1867 "suggests that the spire may then have towered 50 to 100 feet higher."

Virgil K. Pringle, 1846

Thursday, June 18 Came in view of the chimney early in the morning, which was 20 miles distant. Divided our company into three parts for the greater convenience of traveling. Proceeded ahead 20 miles and camped on the river. 20 miles.

Friday, June 19 Passed the chimney in the fore part of the day and the formation of the bluffs have a tendency to fill the mind with awe and grandeur. The chimney might pass for one of the foundries in St. Louis, were it blackened by burning stone coal. There is a nearby bluff near it, that reminds me of prints that I have seen of the capitol at Washington. Made 20 miles and camped near Scott's Bluffs. 792 miles.

 

Elizabeth Dixon Smith, 1847

July 8 made 12 miles saw chimney Rock it is a curiosity in deed a rock or rather a hard clay standing alone towering in the are perhaps 300 feet all of the lofty rocks alone here is composed of the same meterial some of them resemble old demolished villages half sunk in the ground with stoves pipes sticking out at the top. to day we the dredfulest hail storm that I ever witnessed which me and a young woman had like to have been caught in as we went out to visit the famous chimney rock fortuneately we reached one of the foremost wagons just as the hail began to pelt us. it tore some of their waggon covers off broke some bows and made horses and oxon run a way & made bad work they say about it is subject to tornadoes.

Chimney Rock

JOURNAL OF CROSSING THE PLAINS TO OREGON IN 1852 by John T. Kerns

Tuesday, June 15-We traveled twenty miles and passed the opposite of Court House rock and encamped oposite the Chimney Rock and in sight of the Scott's Bluff ... The Chimney Rock, another work of nature resembling that of art, stands on the south of the Platte river and is also some distance from the river. As the mountains are continually crumbling and falling down, I suppose this must have been a column of the mountain at the foot of which it stood and this being a solid column, it has endured while around has fallen from it. It is also composed of sandstone. Remarks: our sick are all better. We witnessed one death this afternoon, 1066 miles.

Margaret A. Frink, 1850

Wednesday, June 5. The weather to-day was quite hot and oppressive. We had to cross a long stretch without water. The road we took led us close to the base of Chimney Rock, where we stopped for some time to satisfy our curiosity. The base is shaped like a large cone, from the top of which rises a tall tower or chimney, resembling the chimney of a manufacturing establishment. According to Fremont, it was once five hundred feet high, but has been worn down by the winds and rains until it is no more than two hundred and fifty feet in height. It is composed of marl and soft sandstone, which is easily worn away. Mr. Frink carved our names upon the chimney, where are hundreds of others.

Chimney Rock

John S. Zieber, 1851

Monday, June 30-We camped for the night near Chimney Rock on the S. Side of the river. We had seen it in all our last day's travel and the wonder was that we seemed so near it and yet could not seemingly get any nearer by even a half day's travel.

For additional information on Chimney Rock, see the following:

Merrill Mattes, The Great Platte River Road, Chapter XII: "Chimney Rock, Eighth Wonder of the World"

Robert L. Munkres, "The Sentinels of the North Platte." [With accompanying photographs] The National Tombstone Epitaph, June, 1983.

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